Purposely Built and Built With a Purpose

I recently re-read William Gibson’s Pattern Recognition, one of his early 2000s books, where he goes beyond the classic cyberpunk and into, among other things “technology”, the realm of marketing, brands, clothing, and a future that is not much different from the present that we currently inhabit.

In the book, the main character, Cayce, is allergic to branding, tags, and other things that fashion and clothing display, forcing her to deal with it. One of the things she does is to create a collection of very simplified and toned down items to form a wardrobe capsule (CPUs as Gibson call those in the book). Specific colors, specific items, and a very specific point: anonymous clothing.

This speaks to me in many ways, because, like I already mentioned in On Choices, I approach clothing much the same way - well, maybe not at that level, but you get what I mean.

I went looking for more information about what William Gibson had in mind, as he was writing this book, and I run into this interview with Heddels.

"I want what I’m wearing to feel good on, wear well, and to be extremely functional."

William Gibson

It’s a very interesting read. It got me thinking about my own wardrobe and how I got there - and why.

In my case, clothing and accessories need to be functional first and foremost. I like when things are purpose built, in general. Clothing and items that are architected for function, simple, and with little shine are the way. If you design something this way, you focus first on what the item’s purpose is, creating those features first, and then adding - if needed - anything extra. Usually those extras are just little touches and that’s all.

"‘Authenticity’ doesn’t mean much to me. I just want ‘good’, in the sense of well-designed, well-constructed, long-lasting garments. My interest in military clothing stems from that. It’s not about macho, playing soldiers, anything militaristic. It’s the functionality, the design-solutions, the durability. Likewise workwear."

William Gibson

I feel the same way.

This is one of the reasons I’ve always been attracted to gear, especially those items built for the military and the climbing world. I’ve spent time in the military, using that kit for its intended purpose. Same as a climber, always looking for a better, lighter, and simpler kit that could keep me dry and warm in the mountains.

Later in life, as I became more sedentary and focused on work and urban life, that purpose was a bit lost, until I discovered that my favorite brands, like Patagonia and Arc’teryx, were making everyday pieces that I could wear at the office. That led me to finding techwear and performance wear, which meant I could have the technical fabrics and functionality of the climbing gear with a look that was tailored for the city.

So, back in 2016/17 I began to build my own “capsule” wardrobe.

I’m a minimalist but that doesn’t mean I don’t have stuff. I do, but each item is carefully selected, within a specific color range, and generally with a purpose in mind. Again, architected items.

I can choose now from a range of items and combine them easily, given that they are all simple, timeless (AKA classic), and share the same color patterns.

Most items don’t have a brand on display, which is another cool thing. But some do, and that’s ok, provided the item serves a purpose.

How did I build that? It was simple, but not easy. What I mean is that it was a labor of iterating and removing. It started one day, with me removing all the items I wasn't wearing or didn’t fit me any more. I donated some, and sold others. Then, I took what was left and I chose the key items that I would wear all the time. Those items were mostly black, blue, OD green, and gray, so I decided that from that point forward, I would only buy those colors. I do allow other colors, like white for dress shirts or the occasional tshirt, or a splash of color on a climbing jacket, but for the most part I focus on those few colors.

Once I had the items in the main group, I looked at the rest. Again, I selected things that would match the main items, that could be combined, and that I like to wear. Only a few items made the cut. The rest, as before, I either donated or sold.

I was left with a smaller and simpler wardrobe.

My long sleeve shirts: some heavier, some lighter. All share a simple color set. You can see the exception with the dress shirts.

The rule I gave myself was that, if a piece of clothing needed to be replaced due to wear and tear, then I would first of all try to mend it and fix it, and if it was not possible, then I would buy a new one that was better than the original. Better meaning: simpler, purposeful, and more comfortable.

An example of this was the pair of Dockers blue chinos I had for many years. They were great, utilitarian, and comfortable. When those went, instead of buying another pair of Dockers, I went with the Bluffworks Chinos, a modern take of the same pants, with technical fabrics for easy care and better traveling. Same with a white dress shirt I had for some time; when I replaced it, I went with a Ministry of Supply shirt. Both have been great and a good enhancement of my wardrobe.

The other rule I gave myself for this was that if I would bring a new item because I wanted it, then something else would have to go. One item in, one item out. That would help me to remain light and minimal.

It has been working so far, and it’s been almost 10 years.

The only exception here that I allow is my hiking/climbing/adventure gear. I tend to be a bit crazier and colorful. But that’s OK. Like I said, I am a minimalist but I enjoy having the things I need when I need them.